Day 5 Mississipi - Drive to Clarksdale, via Tutwiler

Today started slow enough - woke up about 7:00 am and pack up. I checked out of Tallahatche flats. Checking out means dropping off the keys in a wooden box on the porch of the "office". I had to run because it scared a bunch of wasps out of the box. My GPS directed me to turn on Rd 332, which turned to gravel in about a mile and then to red dirt in another mile. It was so rough, that I was afraid I was going to tear up the rental car, so I turned around. I took some good guesses and got to highway 49 north and saw a sign for Clarksburg. I drove for a while and was getting hungry, so I was watching for any place to eat. At about 11 am I was driving through a little town called Tutwiler and saw a tiny place called Big Pappa's Soul Food. I walked in and was warmly greeted by Miss Maxine. She recommended the ribs. I got baked beans, slaw, fried okra and toasted white bread.

Miss Maxine and me (wiping BBQ sauce off my hands)

The only other person the the place turned out to be the town artist - Larry Grimes. He made "Yard Art". He came and sat down and started talking. About the first thing he said was " I'm not psychic, but I'm a good judge of people - you're a religious man aren't you?" I said I was and he started talking. He hardly stopped for the next 3 hours. He insisted I drive with him out to his yard, because he had a cross he wanted to give me. He had about a 10-acre junk yard full of "Art" and yet-to-be art. He made yard statues - bluesmen with guitars, martians, Indians, airplanes with blades made out of old fans, and just about anything you could think of - all made out of mufflers, tin, car parts, appliances, and anything "People just throw away".  American Pickers was coming on Saturday to film at his place. He gave me a cross, an old fiddle, and a Mississippi license plate. He drove me into old Tutwiler and showed me the grave of Willie "Sunny Boy" Williamson and introduced me to a few of his relatives. We drove around several of his favorite sights. He ended with an admonishment that I visit him at the "Po Monkey" for music on Thursday night. He said it would be full of all kinds of people, "Black, white - it don't matter, They'll even let a boy from California in!"   I got out of there at 3:30 pm.

Larry at his Art Studio

His newest work - John Deere tractors made from old sewing machines

Mural in Tutwiler showing info about Sunny Boy Williamson

I finally made it into Clarksdale and got checked into the Cotton Gin Inn at the Hopland Plantation. This place also has shacks, but I decided to stay inside the Gin. The rooms are nice, with air conditioning and a balcony that looks out over the yard and shacks. It was about 95F outside.

Below the rooms, inside the main part of the old Gin is a big music venue, shops and a bar/restaurant. The place is just covered with blues and music memorabilia. They've got a bunch of old guitars down there for guests to play. I grabbed one and did my best 3-bar blues for the five people that were inside. I wouldn't say I got a standing ovation, but it was fun to be on the same stage that has had so many blues giants.

I took advantage of my air-conditioned room and took a nap. My first real nap since I have been here. I got up around 6:00 pm and went down stairs. I saw a couple from NY that I had met at the other shacks and they were heading into town for dinner (supper here), I jumped in with them and we went to a place in town Abe's BBQ. I had BBQ beef, beans, cornbread, slaw and sweet tea. It was great!

Tomorrow I plan to just bum around town and get pictures of all the beautiful colors I see.... and eat of course!