The Withlacoochee and Crystal Rivers

This whole area of Florida is criss-crossed by rivers, but the cool thing is that these rivers flow right out of the ground. We are about 10 miles from the Crystal springs artesian headwaters where 600 million gallons of fresh water pours out of the ground each day. You can stand there and look to the left...nothing... but look to the right and there's a big ole river flowing by. You can rent a tube and float down the river, then a bus will pick you up in town and take you back to your car at the headwaters. The rive is classic Florida beautiful with Cypress trees, water lilies and every manner of beautiful birds and insects.



We are staying at the confluence with the Withlacoochee River which is a little cloudy. We found a canoe and some paddles under the cottage so we decided to paddle up the river to where it gets clear. Rhonda had never been in a canoe and was a little hesitant, but I assured her I had tons of canoe experience.

It was hot so we grabbed some wine, a couple of beers, some Gatorade and bottled water. I dragged the canoe down to the dock and got it in the water. It floated fine but getting in was a little tricky. After just a couple of tries we were inside and headed upstream. We quickly worked out a system for paddling - I paddle one side while Rhonda paddles the other side. Then when we were headed in the wrong direct, I switch sides and help Rhonda catch up. Canoes are long and sleek and designed to go in a straight line. But, somehow we managed to zigzag back and forth across the river. Seriously, we got a tour of both sides of the river on just one trip upstream.


After we got up the river a ways, we rounded a bend and within just a matter of feet, the water turned to crystal clear. It was beautiful! You could see the bottom down to 20' or more with fish and turtles continually swimming below the boat. We saw Ospreys sitting in the Cyprus trees and big turtles basking on almost every log.  There were egrets and spoonbills sitting in the trees and  cormorants chasing fish along side the canoe. We saw about everything we had hoped to see except a manatee.

We found a good shallow spot in the river to get out of the boat. The water was cold but it was a perfect place for a  swim. After splashing around and having a good time, we sat on the bank and watched the little fish nibble at our toes. I drank a beer while Rhonda sipped some wine. After a few minutes we picked up and headed further upstream to check out a sign we saw while swimming.
We eased up to the sign and read the following:
NO BOTTLES OF ANY KIND ALLOWED ON THE RIVER.
It then went on to list the various penal codes and potential fines.
I glanced down at the harmless little sack full of beverages which at that moment was transformed into a dangerous sack full of contraband. Yikes! That's all I need. I could just picture the cops roaring around the corner in a big speed boat and me jumping out and running through the swamp with the bloodhounds on my trail. I could already hear the loudspeaker from the helicopter yelling at me to give up.. "Come out with your hands up. We know you're in there. We have your Gatorade bottles!"

Ok, scary, but we hadn't seen but one other person in a canoe and not a single person in a boat. Still, we decided to play it safe and head back. The trip down river was easier as both current and breeze was headed in our direction. We eased along, talking and enjoying the river, when I heard a barely perceptible little Chug Chug Chug coming from behind us. I turned to look and just as my life's luck would dictate, there were 2 sheriffs coming up in a River patrol boat. I nodded for Rhonda to take a look and then gave her the "just keep cool look" and they'll pass right by us. But just like when I'm on the freeway and driving the speed limit - let a CHP get behind me and I can't keep the car on the dang road.  There's just something un-nerving about having the law behind you. Within a minute we were back to criss-crossing the river and rocking the little craft to the point of taking on water from side to side. The little canoe made at least one full 360 degree rotation and we were just about perpendicular to the river when they idled past us. Both of them smiled and one of them said, "keep at it, ya'll will get the hang of it".

Well given the choices of prison bars or a snide remark from a lawman that thought we were idiots, I'm glad it worked out as it did.

I was plenty happy to see our little dock come into view. We spent the evening sitting by the water, drinking wine, playing guitar and talking about the day in Florida on the Rainbow River when we got chased by the cops :)